Where was Bertie? He spent 3 nights at Camping Ciudad del Ciclismo ('cycling city') just outside of the hilltop village of Cervera del Maestre, at a cost of €19 per night.
Weather: Sunny on Monday then mainly overcast but with some sun on Tuesday and Wednesday. Mid-teens.
Monday
We escaped the campsite vortex! Only 16 nights later than intended when we booked in for 7 nights.
Slightly inland from Peñíscola I'd seen that there were six or seven free Aires. On the plus side, almost all of them offer electricity (either for free, but you have to go and get a token from a local business) or for reasonable rates (again, via token). On the downside, they offer electricity. Our observations over the years have told us that free Aires with free or cheap electricity tend to attract people who stay for longer than is permitted. Given the token system, and without lots of negative reviews saying it was hard to get a spot (plus our experience inland in the Sierra Morena last year where we got a spot at every with-free-electric Aire we tried), I was optimistic.
My optimism was misplaced! Bertie toiled up the hills to Cervera del Maestre to find all 5 places taken. I didn't have an immediate plan B and after contemplating the map I was concerned that we could spend the whole day driving Aire to Aire, not find a spot, and end the day further S than we wanted to be (having started with the northernmost of the options).
It was Mick who finally asked the obvious question: 'Is there a campsite nearby?'
It turned out there was, and less than 2km away, albeit we drove the best part of 8km when Mick declined to attempt the road involved in the short route.
I don't think I've mentioned thus far that we have barely seen any other British vans since arriving in Spain. We may have seen one every couple or three days when out and about (amongst a sea of vans of other nationalities), but there had only been one other on the campsite and we never did see anyone home, so we've not spoken to another Brit since leaving the UK. So how funny that as we left the main road to approach the campsite (which probably only sees three or four arrivals a day), we found ourselves in a convoy of three vans, all British.
We took a stroll up to the castle in the afternoon, where an information sign told us it had been 'purposely built to stop the unstoppable advance of the Christian troops'. I assume there has been a retrospective view applied to that information!
Tuesday
Having reached the peak weeks of training, I had a big week of running on the agenda this week, starting with 16k on Tuesday. Being in such a hilly area 'running' is a very loose description of what I did, but I had a whale of a time in the local hills. So much more runnable than the Sierra d'Irta, with lots of dirt tracks, housing a whole network of biking & walking routes. I did opt for one 1.4km section of technical single track, but being steeply uphill, I was never going to be running that bit anyway.
Getting back to Bertie I opined that I could happily spend a few weeks in this area, exploring lots of local paths.
As for the campsite, it makes the one in Peñíscola look like outstanding value (€13 there vs €19 here). The facilities in Peñíscola were always clean, tidy and well maintained (with a constantly tinkering Maintenance chap) - and there were two facilities blocks, so nobody had to walk more than a minute to the nearest. In Cervera the toilets/showers, which are slightly grubby and wanting of maintenance, are in the restaurant building, which is about 250m from the camping area. Not the end of the world, but you certainly don't want to get there and find you've forgotten your towel! The plus sides of Cervera are water taps on each pitch, WiFi that works all day long (probably because at the moment occupancy is really low, with only around 20 or so vans each night), and hot water at the washing up sinks (at the last place everyone just went into the toilets to fill up their washing up bowls).
We had initially booked in for 2 nights, but before I embarked on cooking tea this evening, I strolled up to Reception to extend our stay for another 2 nights, telling them that in reality we would probably stay through the weekend.
As for tea, it was chicken and chorizo tonight - a Spanish inspired dish with plentiful garlic and served with crispy cubes of fried potato. Finishing my plateful, I observed that it just wasn't as tasty as it usually is, but I had no idea why not. The moment Mick said "I know why", it struck me too. I'd forgotten the chorizo bit of the chicken & chorizo! (I've also been known to serve Chick Pea Stewy Thing without any chick peas, so I have form in missing out the headline ingredient).
Wednesday
As I ran down the hill yesterday, amounting to around 400m of almost continuous descent, I knew it was probably ill-advised. It's been a while since I ran such a continuous and steep downhill. I woke this morning with sore quads, glutes and hamstrings. Fortunately for my current purposes a fast march is as useful to me as a run, and I only had 5km to cover today so a late afternoon 5k march it was to be.
First though, I was going to loosen up my body by taking Mick for breakfast at Mati's - one of three eateries in the village and the one with the best reviews.
We could hear the hubbub as we approached and inside was full. There was, however an outside table, so we went in to place an order, whereupon a table immediately became free inside.
We timed our visit well - just as everyone else was finishing up their sandwiches/toast/glasses of spirits, so we got the atmosphere of the rush, followed by the peace after everyone else left.
I never did get my afternoon walk. I got tied up doing some work, then our plans underwent a swift change.
Mick's mum was taken poorly last week and on Wednesday afternoon we decided it was time to head home. I did offer to chuck Mick on a plane then drive Bertie back myself, but the decision was to drive, so an itinerary was planned, our Chunnel booking moved*, and our bill at the campsite paid so we could make an early exit on the morrow.
(*insignificant in the grand scheme of things, but we are now crossing the Channel on the Sunday at the end of half term which is eyewateringly expensive when booking at this proximity at almost £400 (vs £145 if we'd had the leisure to wait until Monday). We will count our blessings at securing a crossing as most of the day was sold out.)
That looks like the best terrain you have been in during this trip. I know I keep complimenting you on your photography which is hugely enhanced when "click to enlarge." This time there is an outstandingly sharp clarity of atmosphere and light. Sorry to hear about Mick's mum.
ReplyDeleteWith my good wishes,
Conrad.